Letter 24
There’s been a surge of people who are asking me what it’s like living in Cuenca, Ecuador.
Can’t imagine why. Ahem. But I am, ever, desirous of being helpful, so…
I know a few things about Cuenca after having lived here for almost three years that may be of help to you:
The weather is consistently cool. Aside from this year's unusual drought, which led to a season of annoying power outages, I find it very pleasant. With all my injuries and surgeries, a stable climate is very helpful to me. Cuenca provides that.
The sun can be very intense here. Hats, long sleeves and sunscreen are very helpful.
In my experience, Cuencanos are polite and tolerant of clueless gringos, and will even help if asked. A little patience and courtesy goes a long way here.
Learn as much Spanish as you can. It is appreciated. And you'll expand your horizons as your Spanish improves. Cuencanos, in my experience, are patient with stumbling gringo Spanish, and you will find you have many patient instructors.
Cuenca is quite safe, but not so safe that you can be foolish. Most crimes here are crimes of opportunity. Keep your wits about you, don't leave your phone on the table or in an outside, accessible pocket, and lock your doors, as you would anywhere. Violent crime is relatively rare here, so long as you are not involved in dangerous activities. Rely on your Ecuadorian friends for advice, and enjoy this pleasant, peaceful place.
The cost of living, especially if you can use the mercados and have at least a bit of Spanish, is quite low compared to the states. Fresh produce, especially, is plentiful and easily available. Learn which local brands are to your liking, imports are expensive. Rentals are affordable, and generally in good repair.
Cuenca is a very pleasant, attractive, and walkable city, but it is not, in many places, wheelchair accessible. The sidewalks, in some places, are uneven and broken. You will learn to watch your step, and they aren't horrible, but it is something to bear in mind. Stray dogs are also more of an issue here. I have been attacked twice. In one case, I was bitten requiring ER attention and rabies shots. I recommend a walking stick and perhaps a can of pepper spray.
Medical care is very good, and far more affordable than it is in the States. You may have to practice patience, but things will get done, generally to a high standard, but you may have to wait more than you're used to.
The biggest adaptation you will probably have to make is that Cuencanos, and Ecuadorians in general do not prioritize efficiency and time management to the extreme degree that you are probably accustomed to in the States. You will learn that "mañana" does not mean "tomorrow," it means "not today." Things will get done, and generally very well done, but on a flexible schedule. I have seldom had an Ecuadorian friend arrive on time for a social engagement, but if they say they will be there, they will...when they get there.
You should cultivate what Ecuadorians call "Tranquilo," an acceptance of the fact that things come in the order that they come. Once you get used to it, not being a slave to the clock and the calendar is actually a nice way to live. The whole hyperdemanding, "I want to talk to your manager!" thing, gets you no traction in Ecuador. Ecuadorians seem to have the ability to block people in real life. Patience and good humor is everything. Be polite, calm, and persistent, and all will be well.
Ecuadorians do like parties, parades, loud music, fireworks and dogs. That's not going to change. There's noise here. Keep that in mind when you choose where you will live, and develop a toleration for it.
On that note, little social graces really matter here. Buenos dias, gracias, buon provecho, and all the other little things you will learn will get a warm, pleasant response, generally. Always be polite. Again, being pushy will get you nada here.
Reach out to your fellow expats and immigrants, they are generally a welcoming and helpful bunch. There are exceptions, of course, but generally, this is an easy place to find friends. Don't forget to get to know your Ecuadorian neighbors, too. They will be a great resource for you, and you'll learn quite a bit.
I hope that you enjoy Cuenca as much as we have. Good luck in your search, and don't hesitate to reach out to Kathleen and me if we can be helpful.